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Enjoy (cheap) sake and ramen at Biwa

April 16, 2010

by Mayme Berman

Although the restaurant is named after a short-necked Japanese lute, Biwa offers renditions of traditional fare from Korea and China as well as Japan. Nestled on the corner of Stark and 9th in SE Portland, Biwa’s immediate appeal is the warmth that one feels when walking through the front doors. While this glowing feeling can be somewhat attributed to the clustered line of bodies waited to be seated, the small space and the open kitchen create an intimate setting in which diners are surrounded by the enticing smell of their much-anticipated food.

While this place may be pricey for those of us listing “student” as our current occupation, if you know when to go, all the ramen and sake goodness can be yours without breaking the bank. Biwa offers two happy hour specials, one from 5 – 6 p.m. and the other from 9 – 10 p.m., but there’s a catch: It’s only available for those eating at the counter. The early menu features appetizers such as grilled hanger steak or skewered and seasoned tofu, while the later menu offers noodles. Both ramen and udon noodles are offered, but I’d say your best bet is to go with the ramen. The silky thin texture of the noodles is perfectly complimented by a salty pork broth, and for an extra dollar or two you can add an assortment of toppings (I had a egg on top of mine). The udon pales in comparison, with a consistency that is tough and chewy rather than plump and soft.

Although Biwa is known for its homemade ramen noodles and modern renditions of Korean BBQ, the bar should not be overlooked. With extensive sake and cocktail lists, you will feel dizzy with the thought of making a decision. This is why I had to try both a cocktail and the house sake. From what I could tell I wasn’t the only one with problems in decision-making: The room was alive with chatter and smiling faces.